By Cathy Branciaroli, Food Correspondent, The Times : It’s spring and asparagus leek chowder is on the menu for weekday supper. Steamed, sautéed, roasted or grilled — asparagus takes on differently delicious qualities depending on how you cook it. Roasting and grilling turns asparagus almost sweet. Steamed, it retains the heart of its natural flavor.  Please, please don’t boil these...